Cage Trapping Instructions
Mercer Lawing, P.O. Box 1966, Barstow, Ca. 92311 760-497-1445
Thank you for your purchase. I hope that you are pleased with the cages and that they have arrived damage free. Please feel free to contact me with any questions or comments.
I would like to offer some tips/suggestions for trapping with your Camtrip cages. I will try and cover most of the common questions asked by my customers. These cages ship out to all skill levels from beginners to veteran trappers so keep that in mind.
* Your cages have been dipped in industrial primer before shipping but may require some touch up after arrival. Cheap gray spray primer will work just fine. Flat black works well also. You may want to camouflage paint the traps. This is not to for the bobcat’s sake but to conceal it from other people. The bobcat could care less if it is hot pink. In fact, the rectangular steel opening of the cage and the “dark hole” that it produces is very out of place when in the field and appeals to the curious nature of the cat. I want the cat to notice the cage. Anyways, when I camo’ my cages I raise the door into the set position and simply spray some flat black stripes on it and the door frame front and back. You can get as carried away with the camouflage painting as you like. The shiny cage wire does not deter fox or bobcats and will turn gray within the first season so no need to worry about that. Painting it doesn’t hurt either.
* When setting the door in place grasp it left of center with your right hand and after raising it high enough rotate the cam with your left hand. This will ensure that the ‘trigger pin” is fully under the square bar of the door. The door will cant sideways when properly set.
* The pan tension on your cages can be adjusted by turning the small bolt on the side of the cage. The minimum pan tension will just barely hold the pan up with the door removed. This min. setting will give you about 3 pounds pan tension (center of pan) when the door is in place and will prevent miss-fires due to windy conditions. A little more tension will help cut down on incidental catches of rabbits, possum and other small stuff.
* Vaseline/grease can be applied between the bottom of the door and where it rests on the trigger pin if you are trapping in wet conditions. This will keep the door from rusting to the pin. You can also use spray automobile wax on the entire door/door frame for rainy weather to help keep things operating. Dripping trappers wax onto the rails, door and any moving parts with a small propane torch is a sure fire way to eliminate freeze – ups’. Don’t worry much about foreign odors when caging’ fox and cats like your bare hands, rust, or wax. Bobcats do not find these mild foreign odors repulsive.
* When setting your cage be sure and have at least two feet of cover around the sides and back of the cage that makes it impossible for the cat to get at your lure without going into the cage. You can cover the top of the cage if you like- it is not necessary. I cover it enough to provide some shade for the trapped animal.
* Make your cage bed flat and level. Be sure and bed the cage into heavy enough cover to keep it from tipping over in the bed. You can drive a stake through the corner of the cage down at the bottom if you are concerned that the trap may tip or slide out of its bed.
* I like to use a “smorgasbord” approach to my cage trapping with regard to lure and bait. I like to have bait or bait type lure at each set along with a cat gland based “curiosity lure”, cat pee and some eye appeal at every set. Using one or two of these items can catch cats but using all of them at each set will catch more. I think good “bait” has some eye appeal rather than just a chunk of meat or something thrown in. My favorites are whole or parts of birds and rabbits. When using bait be sure and check the regulations yourself. Regulations are often different for live catch traps and other trappers are sometimes the worst source for guidance on regulations.
* Many guys throw their lure stick with a glob of lure on it into the cage and call it good. Personally I think this is a big mistake. This results in lure getting all over your cage, the cage that slides into that one, your hands, and your vehicle and not to mention the trapped animal. So now, after awhile, the front of your cage smells just like the rear of the cage where you have applied the lure. The cat visits your set, mostly because of the odors, gets a good whiff out front and has no reason to enter the cage. I have seen it too many times on trail cam. Controlling your lure scents is very important to cage trapping because we need to make the cat enter two feet into the cage to get caught. Lure, baits and other things critical to getting the cat into the cage have been covered in full detail in my “Guaranteed Success” cage trapping bobcats DVD.
* Take a look at the sketch below for some more pointers that should help.
* I hope some of you have found these tips helpful and would like to hear back from you. Send some pictures of you and your success’s in so that I can get them up on the website.
Take care and good luck,
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